Sewing Terminology - Part 1

Sewing Terminology: Part 1

Are you ready to learn more about sewing? Or just get a bit of a refresher? This post marks the official start of the Creative Notions How To Sew For Beginners – Sewing 101 and we’re starting by covering sewing terminology.

Sewing terminology are unique and it’s not always clear exactly what they mean. Below, I will discuss some of the most commonly used sewing terminology. This will certainly be enough to get you off to a good start!



I will be splitting the sewing terminology post into two parts as there is way too much information for one! So, without further ado, some of the most common terminology follows:

Anchoring Stitches

Anchoring stitches are used to secure your line of stitching. On most modern sewing machines, this is a stitch with no length to keep the line of stitching from unravelling. Or you can anchor your line of stitching at the end by stitching backwards a few times. (also backtack, backstitch).

Applique

Applique is a technique where cut-out fabric designs are attached to another piece of fabric by stitching them on. Usually one uses a satin stitch to do so.

Armscye

A fancy term for the armhole.

Baste, Basting Stitches

Long stitches used to temporarily stitch fabric together before doing the final stitches.

Bias

This refers to the diagonal of the fabric, so cut at 45° to the selvedge. Cutting your fabric on the bias ensures that you have the most stretch possible.

Bias Binding

Binding is used to finish off edges and bias binding is binding that is cut on the bias of the fabric. The bit of stretch in it allows for the binding to be sewn neatly around curves and rounded edges.

Dart

Darts are folds that have been sewn into fabric to create ease and shape to the wearer of the finished garment. It is most commonly used around the bust area.

Double Needle

This a special needle that allows you to sew two rows of straight stitches simultaneously. You use two spools of thread when threading your machine and only one bobbing. One advantage of this single bobbin is that the bottom thread zig-zags between the two top threads and therefore has some stretch which means it can be used on knit fabrics.

Facing

Fabric used to finish the exposed edges of fabric and is basically a partial lining in areas like the neckline and armholes.

Gather

Gathering is a technique to gather up the fabric to add interest and also fit.

Grain, Grainline

The direction of the threads. Lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvedge and cross-grain runs perpendicular to the selvedge.

Hem

This is the finished bottom edge of the garment. Hem allowance refers to the distance between the edge of the fabric and where the hem will be sewn. A hem is usually folded once or twice to the inside of the garment and sewn in place.

Interfacing

Interfacing is a type of fabric used to stabilise very soft fabrics. You get two types, sew-in and fusible. The easiest by far is fusible interfacing which is ironed on the wrong side of your fabric to make it stiffer.

Lining

Soft silk like fabric sewn into the inside of a garment (usually jackets etc.) to hide all the sewing lines.

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